性冷淡和阳光炽烈,一口清泉和一股洪流

​暗无天日,终会拨云见日。

People in nature, Summer, Sea, Sky, Long hair, Fun, Vacation, Love, Ocean, Photography,
网络

大牌摄影师的明星排场和高额报价,时尚圈很难当面拒绝,因为我们这个圈子的游戏规则掌握在“资深人士”手中,从设计师到广告公司创意总监,都好了这么多年了,下一顿饭哪能少得了彼此呢?如果哪天Prada不再找Steven Meisel拍广告了,Burberry也不搭理Mario Testino了,呵呵,那估计只有等Steven和Mario都退休不干了,大家都是体面人,拿时尚当饭吃,绝逼不能撕逼。

好在,审美终归会疲劳。随着《Fantastic Man》、《Another》等独立媒体崛起,以及年轻时装设计师上了位,几位“新”摄影师脱引而出,开始有能力侵蚀大牌摄影师们的领地,从杂志到广告,更有分庭抗礼之势。例如,Wiily Vanderperre(Raf Simons的御用)的商业价格已超越了David Sims(法国版《Vogue》御用)。

People in nature, Summer, Sea, Sky, Long hair, Fun, Vacation, Love, Ocean, Photography,
网络
1 of 42

我不写论文,也不搞学术研究,在这个周四与大家分享八位摄影师的作品,且把他们分为性冷淡和阳光炽烈。如果有心,你就会发现这两种趋势正影响着时尚圈的审美,国内年轻编辑和摄影师也纷纷效仿,从情感造型到背景搭建,学得有模有样。性冷淡来自欧洲高冷派,犹如一口清泉。而阳光炽热则由青年英国摄影师掌控,堪比洪流的强烈凶猛。尽管他们的视角相对小众,却如此新鲜,游刃有余。

Blue, Fashion, Cool, Photography, Font, Black-and-white, Room, Album cover, Electric blue, Photo shoot,
网络
2 of 42
Raf Simons 2016/17秋冬系列平面广告

性冷淡:黑白,灰调,高冷,提价。▶ Willy Vanderperre

随Raf Simons步入时尚摄影圈,然后Kris Van Assche也跟着用,大家都是比利时人。广告客户有Dior Homme、Dior、Jil Sander等。Willy Vanderperre的风格相对前卫,讲究形式感。如果一旦操作色彩鲜艳人物众多的大片,就有点把持不住了,例如某季Dior女装在海岸悬崖拍摄的广告。一直性冷淡,偶尔高潮或许会不适应?

Eyewear, Red, Fashion, Glasses, Sunglasses, Outerwear, Cool, Suit, Font, Coat,
网络
3 of 42
Dior Homme 2016/17秋冬系列平面广告
Face, Fashion model, Beauty, Lip, Model, Fashion, Skin, Hat, Headgear, Fedora,
网络
4 of 42
Jil Sander 2016/17秋冬系列平面广告
Poster, Chin, Forehead, Magazine, Album cover, Photography, Movie, Advertising,
网络
5 of 42
《Another Man》杂志封面
White, Face, Photograph, Fashion, Beauty, Skin, Standing, Hairstyle, Model, Fashion model,
网络
6 of 42
COS符号性的画册形象照

▶ Karim Sadli

这位巴黎摄影师有个外号叫“COS摄影师”,是的,COS的画册和广告形象几乎都是他拍的。当然这个派别的摄影师一定会拍Jil Sander。国内品牌Mo&Co也找过他拍摄形象广告,结果如愿以偿。

White, Clothing, Neck, Fashion, Model, Outerwear, Shoulder, Sleeve, Black-and-white, Suit,
网络
7 of 42
Jil Sander 2014/15秋冬系列平面广告,性冷淡系摄影师必须要拍到的一个时装品牌。
Fashion, Model, Black hair, Photography, Album cover, Black-and-white, Style, Gesture, Photo shoot, Fashion model,
网络
8 of 42
Jil Sander Navy系列2014/15秋冬平面广告(左) Mo&Co. 2014/15秋冬系列平面广告(右)
Face, Chin, Head, Magazine, Skin, Forehead, Nose, Cheek, Poster, Album cover,
网络
9 of 42
Karim Sadli也是T Magazine常用的封面摄影师
Text, Trench coat, Fashion, Font, Outerwear, Coat, Dress, Black-and-white, Photography, Fur,
网络
10 of 42

▶ Daniel Riera

西班牙摄影师,和Karim Sadli一样,常拍《Fantastic Man》和《The Gentlewoman》,黑白和光影,拿手好戏。

Clothing, Standing, Overcoat, Coat, Fashion, Outerwear, Fashion design, Footwear, Trench coat, Photography,
网络
11 of 42
White, Hair, Clothing, Fashion, Outerwear, Suit, Beauty, Blazer, Hairstyle, Formal wear,
网络
12 of 42
Uniqlo 2016春夏系列平面广告
Photograph, Snapshot, Black-and-white, Standing, Sitting, Photography, Font, Stock photography, Style, Shoe,
网络
13 of 42
adidas X Stan Smith系列平面广告
Photograph, Black-and-white, Photography, Forehead, Child, Love, Monochrome photography, Portrait photography, Portrait, Stock photography,
网络
14 of 42
Anthony Vaccarello接任Saint Laurent创意总监后第一个形象广告由Collier Schorr掌镜

▶ Collier Schorr

如果Anthony Vaccarello没有接替Hedi Slimane成为Saint Laurent的创意总监,那么53岁的Collier Schorr还在拍拍A.P.C.和一些小众杂志。想想Anthony Vaccarello也是不容易,当年和他男朋友在巴黎的工作室艰难维系,自己做所有衣服,如今终于熬出头,那一定得找自己崇拜的偶像摄影师拍组形象广告。结果就是模特们几乎没穿什么衣服,出现在了2016/17秋冬“过渡系列”画面中。

Sitting, Font, Black-and-white, Photography, Style,
网络
15 of 42
拍拍A.P.C.的平面广告也没那么惨其实...
Beauty, Skin, Model, Chin, Photography, Human, Black-and-white, Hand, Neck, Magazine,
网络
16 of 42
《Another》杂志似乎总找这类摄影师拍照,也是对路
Barechested, Skin, Chest, Muscle, Human, Model, Arm, Flesh, Photography, Human body,
网络
17 of 42

阳光炽烈:阳光,毛发,色彩,冲动。▶ Alasdair Mclellan

他是近年来时尚界涌现出的一股英国洪流,具有符号性,出道于《i-D》杂志,就算拍黑白照片或摄影棚内照片,总有一道英国的阳光环绕,成为了他的符号。经典的构图和肖像摄影,直指观者内心。或许,也和他拍摄的对象有关,那些发质和雀斑。。。哪里找?

Human, Adaptation, Photography, Wrinkle, Stock photography, Portrait, Elder,
网络
18 of 42
阳光对于Alasdair Mclellan来说如此重要
Fashion model, Clothing, Fashion, Fashion design, Model, Dress, Leg, Photo shoot, Photography, Street fashion,
网络
19 of 42
miumiu 2016/17秋冬系列平面广告
Face, Hair, Chin, Cheek, Eyebrow, Hairstyle, Head, Nose, Forehead, Neck,
网络
20 of 42
明星肖像
Hair, Face, Hairstyle, Nose, Eyebrow, Beauty, Chin, Lip, Skin, Hair coloring,
网络
21 of 42
Alasdair Mclellan最喜爱的两位模特的棚拍肖像
Hair, Face, Hairstyle, Eyebrow, Beauty, Nose, Skin, Chin, Lip, Long hair,
网络
22 of 42
《i-D》杂志35周年纪念封面系列
Face, Hair, Black, White, Nose, Eyebrow, Black-and-white, Forehead, Head, Eye,
网络
23 of 42
即使黑白照片,Alasdair Mclellan也依然保持烈日的犀利
Fashion, Brown, Footwear, Human, Outerwear, Headgear, Shoe, Trousers, Fashion design, Street fashion,
网络
24 of 42
Loewe 2015春夏系列平面广告

▶ Jamie Hawkesworth

三十岁不到的英国摄影师Jamie Hawkesworth凭借与Loewe创意总监Jonathan Anderson的长年合作,在时尚界占得了一片天地,风格独特。也是总有一道大不列颠的落日洒落在他的作品中,并且双人模特的互动也是其标志。

Photograph, Standing, Fashion, Black-and-white, Photography, Dress, Outerwear, Footwear, Human, Leg,
网络
25 of 42
J.W. Anderson 2015春夏系列平面广告
Fashion accessory, Material property, Handbag, Bag,
网络
26 of 42
miumiu 2015早秋系列平面广告
Fashion, Photography, Tree, Photo shoot, Outerwear, Long hair, Style,
网络
27 of 42
miumiu 2015早春度假系列平面广告
Beauty, Fashion, Dress, Photography, Neck, Fashion design, Model, Fashion model, Portrait, Style,
网络
28 of 42
Zara 2015/16秋冬系列平面广告
Face, Hair, Nose, Chin, Cheek, Forehead, Eyebrow, Facial expression, Skin, Head,
网络
29 of 42
Jamie Hawkesworth拍摄的杂志封面
Hair, Hairstyle, Human, Adaptation, Photography, Art, Fictional character, Jeans,
网络
30 of 42
Jamie Hawkesworth为杂志拍摄的照片,摸头很重要
广告 - 内容未结束请往下滚动
This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io
更多 From 时装