怎么穿凉鞋才不像......小区大爷?

即便是在以“包容万象”著称的时尚圈,凉鞋也不怎么受待见。

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一贯精致优雅、挑剔到不行的Tom Ford曾在访谈中表示,凉鞋丑得让他发疯。鬼才设计师Thom Browne也宣称,“我不会说‘绝不’,但我是不会穿凉鞋的。”

但仔细想想,凉鞋真有这么丑?如果我们试着搜索下大家对于凉鞋如此嗤之以鼻的原因,不难发现大多数人给出的理由其实和鞋一丁点关系没有,纯粹只是觉得:那些人脚丑而已。
尽管一直被诟病,凉鞋却从未被时尚界抛弃。街头的、极简的、土酷的……每到春夏时装周,总还是能够发现它们低调地活跃在各个大牌的秀场。

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Kenzo Menswear 2020SS

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Hermès Menswear 2019SS

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Jil Sander Menswear 2018SS

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Sacai Menswear 2017SS

街头潮人们也完全没有放弃凉鞋的意思,“反正我能穿得很好看”。

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运动风回潮带起的

凉鞋翻身大作战
对于凉鞋凉拖,很多人会觉得要穿可以,但它们不应该出现在除了泳池沙滩以外的地方。不过如今,好看的凉鞋比比皆是,凉鞋早就突破了这样狭隘的界限,出没于各种场合,变得实穿起来。

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从上到下,左到右分别来自Saint Laurent, Suicoke, Birkenstock, Hender Scheme, Valentino, Fendi, Toga Virilis, Giuseppe, Zanotti, Saint Laurent, Gucci, Rick Owens

早从2014年,运动风就入侵了整个时尚圈,当时一些运动品牌的凉拖一度成为炙手可热的单品。

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而在近几年运动鞋当道的流行趋势下,凉鞋也渐渐向着“老爹鞋”领域进发。拥有超过两百多年历史的德国传统凉鞋品牌Birkenstock就在这几年接连收到了来自时装品牌Rick Owens以及Valentino的合作邀请。

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Birkenstock

在传统鞋型的基础上,时尚设计师们利用不同的材料、logo,通过别出心裁的设计设法将凉鞋与品牌本身的调性结合。联名合作的鞋款保留了Birkenstock原本的DNA,既有功能性,也不失风格。

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Rick Owens Menswear 2019SS

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Valentino Menswear 2019AW

Birkenstock自己也开始了对品牌的新探索,利用EVA超轻塑料制作出了更适合夏天的、五颜六色的凉鞋。

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再有Teva,以户外凉鞋起家的美国老牌。尼龙的鞋带配上宽厚结实的泡沫鞋底——绝对的实用主义,但要说时尚仿佛还差得远。

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于是Teva渐渐开始与Neighborhood、Opening Ceremony等时尚品牌开始联名合作,在时尚圈正式出道。

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Teva x Neighborhood

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Teva x Opening Ceremony

Prada也尝试推出了类似于Teva运动风的户外凉鞋。

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Prada Menswear 2017SS

不同于户外功能性起家的Birkenstock和Teva,日本品牌Suicoke一直以来都颇受高街品牌的青睐,合作过的品牌包括John Elliott,A Bathing Ape,Tyler, The creator等。

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John Elliott 2019SS

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Suicoke x A Bathing Ape

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Suicoke x Tyler, The creator

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Suicoke x John Elliott

这几年大热的adidas yeezy系列也推出了凉拖。

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yeezy season 6

就连我们常常挂在嘴边那个“很丑的洞洞鞋”Crocs也不甘示弱,纷纷和大牌展开合作,只不过是丑是美还由你亲自品鉴。

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Crocs x Christopher Kane | ©Grace Lunn

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Crocs x Christopher Kane

总之,夏天这么热,脚趾也有想要放风的时候。凉鞋千千万,总有一款适合你。只是,别忘了先修剪你的脚指甲。


怎么穿才能避免成为小区大爷?


① 选择皮质鞋款
皮质凉鞋对于非时尚圈内人非常友好,,也是奢侈品牌最爱推出的凉鞋款式,比如前文提过的Hermès,即便是生性随意的凉鞋也具备了一丝禁欲的贵族气息,当然也让你在成为大爷的路上背道而驰。

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Officine Creative | Black Tanhos Sandals

或者选择下面这种皮和帆布结合的运动款式,让整个look显得更加有活力,关键在于不要显得吊儿郎当太懒散。

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Bottega Veneta \ Black Leather & Canvas Camper Sandals

如果你想要和袜子一起叠穿,搭配纯色、同色系的袜子往往显得不会那么突兀,更加适合通勤时低调穿着。

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② 可千万别搭配大爷款短袖白衬衫

凉鞋毕竟和正装鞋不同,讲究的就是一个随性。可以大胆选择一些较为宽松舒适、颜色轻快的款式,或者是带有像软木塞的鞋底夹层,增添一丝沙滩的度假味道。或者干脆一脚蹬,踩上就能走,怎么轻松怎么来。

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但在搭配上却恰恰相反。

正式因为凉鞋已经如此随性,如果再选择极简款的黑白灰蓝,难免疑似大爷退休style。

花衬衫、渔夫帽、造型款墨镜……搭配的单品不妨稍微“用力”一点点,老年人才佛系,年轻人就是要讲究。

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③ 大logo、drama款,一般大爷不敢这么穿

如果你想更时髦精一些,那么踩着夸张的大logo或是drama设计的凉鞋往往能够立马吸睛,议论你的taste和你的cash都足够让你成为话题中心。

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色彩跳跃,对比度高的撞色真的很难不被注意到。

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要说其他鬼马的吸睛小心思,或许还可以从一双独特的袜子开始。“不知道为什么这样“的设计,或者露给全世界看你脚上有趣的印花和插画。

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都说穿凉鞋前前先整理一下自己的指甲,涂个甲油也未尝不可呢?

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闷出脚汗,伤人伤己

选择凉鞋,爱与和平

撰文:小欣鸡

编辑:醺子

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